Our new Stampin’ Blends are high-quality, dual-tip markers that come in twelve exclusive Stampin’ Up! colours. Each has a light and a dark shade, to give you great blending experience without making things too complicated!
To complement the Blends SU! have also produced a Color Me Happy Project Kit and a coordinating stamp set, which include beautiful line-art imagery that will give you a great chance to test these markers’ blending abilities.
The Blends will be available in upcoming catalogues but the Color Me Happy Project Kit will only be available while supplies last and the Color Me Happy Stamp Set will only be available as long as kit supplies last.
A top tip when designing your cards is to cut and assemble all your layers but don’t stick them all in place until you’re sure you’re happy with the design.
You may already know this but most of Stampin’ Up!’s DSP is double sided (the rare exception is some of the Specialty DSPs). The great thing about this is that if you don’t much like the pattern on one side, you can choose to use none of that and twice as much of other 🙂
Even if you think you like a particular pattern, it’s worth testing the other side out to find out whether it will work better. I used to waste a lot of DSP once upon a time. I’d have lots of card fronts made up with DSP because I cut them, stuck them down and then decided they weren’t what I needed. Nowadays I check my layout before gluing anything in place.
Originally the card above was going to look very different. I liked the white leaf spray pattern on the other side of the DSP.
But when I tried laying out the card above it just seemed too “busy”. None of the pieces were stuck down, so I flipped the DSP over to check the other design.
And the design immediately felt more grounded, I could see the flowers and the hummingbird more clearly.
I hope that this tip helps you find new DSP patterns to enjoy, while saving you a few pennies here and there.
Tip 1 – Lay the Little Letters out on your card to “try out” the spacing. Where duplicate letters are needed, use a letter of the approx. size and shape as a “stunt letter” (here we used K to judge the spacing needed for the second R).
Tip 2 – Use a ruler to ensure that the base of all letters are aligned.
Tip 3 – Although we usually recommend the Magnetic Platform for dies, the small magnets tend to make the Little Letters jump around. Instead, washi tape was used to hold the Little Letters in place (remembering to remove the “stunt letter”).
Tip 4 – Remove the duplicate letter and reposition the die, leaving all the other letters in place and using the ruler again to ensure that the repositioned letter is fully aligned with the originals.
Tip 5 – Take care that some symmetrical letters do have a “right way up”, eg. the X is narrower at the top than the bottom.
Hope these tips help you get the most from your Little Letters thinlits.
I’ve used some snowflake wrapping paper for my Christmas gifts (I have a huge roll so I’ll probably still be using it next year 😀 ) and decided to make some snowflake tags to go with it.
The Snowflake Card thinlit was used to die cut the main chunky snowflake from Whisper White card (see the video here to find out how to cut just this portion). The large skinny snowflake was die cut from Silver Foil and the small skinny snowflake from Whisper White. A dimensional was used to pop up the silver flake and then the small one adhered direct before topping with a Basic Rhinestone.
Now the Many Merry Stars kit isn’t identified as being food safe. Why would it be? It’s designed for the stars to be fully enclosed as decorations, not opened up as boxes – it’s just that we demos like to find other ways and uses, lol. But as it’s not food safe, I wanted to make sure that my chocs were already wrapped and would therefore be okay.
Rather than have a dinky box with maybe 3-4 chocs inside, I opted for one of the largest (though not quite the largest) stars, which easily fits upwards of 10 chocs in there.
However, the large star will not fit through the Big Shot without squishing the points.
Tip 1 – To cut the aperture from a large star, position the framelit in the centre and then roll through the Big Shot as far as it will go without damaging the overhanging points. Unroll and lift off the top plate. Rotate the star around, holding the framelit in place, until a different two points are leading. Roll again as far as possible without damaging the overhanging points. Repeat all the way around. This will die cut through all points of the star without squishing any.
Tip 2 – Assemble the box lid before you adhere it to the box base and sides (see here for a video on how to build a regular one). Here, a brad base was used to secure the top point to the star window frame and then large Rhinestones were used to top the brad base and add decoration to the other points. The teeny sentiment banner was popped up on a dimensional, creating a stopper for the box lid so that it stays shut when it swings back to base. All this was done before adding to the rest of the box so that it is easier to get at the sections of the star.
Hope these tips help you create your own swing hinge star box 🙂
The photopolymer stamps are great for seeing where you’re stamping and the flexibility can definitely be turned to your advantage, but with a thin design like this one, it’s easy for it to get pulled out of shape (as in the pic below). If that happens then the framelit isn’t going to match.
To help prevent unwanted stretch, lay the stamp with the design face down (so you’ll have the broadest shape of the stamp at the top) and leave for a few minutes for the stamp to find its shape. If the stamp is sticking to the paper, then shake the paper gently to release it.
Press the clear block down onto the stamp. Lift gently (peel away the paper if it has stuck to the stamp) and you’re good to go.
A few days ago I shared this card and I’m back again today with a few tips for positioning the stamps to get the repeat effect. You can see that my stamping isn’t quite straight – so hopefully you can learn from my mistakes 🙂
Tip 1 – Use photopolymer stamps on clear blocks. You can see through the block and the stamp to see exactly where you’re stamping.
Tip 2 – Stamp your first sentiment where you want the main focus to be (eg. centred on the card front layer) and then use this “base stamp” to work outwards from. I used a different colour so that it would provide further focus.
Tip 3 – Stamp your next sentiment (using a different colour ink) just above and to the right, lining up the the top and bottom bars of the “Y” with those of the “K” and centring the “T” above the “K”. Repeat on the upper left, lining up the the top and bottom bars of the “U” with those of the “T” and centring the “K” above the “T”. Continue by “filling in the spaces” above and below and working down the right and left edges.
Tip 4 – If using embossing powder on a dark cardstock, then consider stamping in White Craft ink instead of Versamark. My stamping isn’t quite straight because I couldn’t see the clear Versamark on the black card clearly enough.
Tip 5 – Again, if using embossing powder, then heat set the first colour before moving on to adding others but take care not to overheat already embossed areas as you add further stamping, otherwise the embossing powder melts back into the card and you don’t get the raised effect.
When I created a long envelope to go with my 3″ x 6″ card I came across a very small problem and so thought I’d share my tips for getting around it.
The Envelope Punch Board has the measurements for creating a matching 3″ x 6″ envelope – this bit is no problem – but then on the resulting envelope, the long flaps are too long and they overlap the opposite edges of the envelope.
Fold back one of the short triangle flaps and insert into a Paper Trimmer so that this edge is against the top. Line up the envelope score line approx. two thirds of the way across the trimmer (for this envelope that was around the 2″ mark) and cut away the excess.
Turn the envelope around, fold back the other short triangle flap and insert into a Paper Trimmer again. This time, line up the envelope score line approx. two thirds of the way across and then add approx. another 1/4″ – 1/2″ before trimming away the excess.
This results in an envelope that still looks smart but has sufficient overlap to close easily.
The Autumn/Winter catalogue contains a whopping 18 photopolymer stamp sets (many of them available in bundles with matching framelits or punches).
Here then are the pros and cons of using photopolymer stamps, along with a few tips for getting the most from them.
Pros of photopolymer
Totally clear – so you can see exactly where you’re stamping – ideal for two-step stamping
Jelly like material – clings easily to clear blocks without falling off
Cheaper – less expensive than Wood or Clear equivalent stamps
Flexible material – so you can curve stamps around slightly or keep them straight
Slimline – packaged in DVD style case so takes up less room on your craft shelves
Packaged with printed sheet – so you can spot if you have any stamps missing
Cons of photopolymer
Less durable and long-lasting – than either Wood or Clear stamps
No cushioning – so needs a very even pressure to get best results
Stains easily – even when cleaned immediately
1 – Brand new stamp sets may still have a residue left on them from the manufacturing process when they arrive from the warehouse. This can cause the ink to pool a little, leading to uneven stamping. Simply clean the stamps with Stampin’ Mist and Scrub before using them for the first time.
2 – As photopolymer stamps don’t have the foam cushioning of our Wood and Clear mount stamps, it helps improve the quality of stamping, to add a little cushioning beneath your card/paper. Put a Stampin’ Pierce mat underneath your card to serve that purpose.
3 – Clean stamps immediately after use to reduce staining. If using Stazon then clean immediately with Stazon cleaner and then again with Stampin’ Mist (or a little washing up liquid and water mix) to remove all traces of Stazon cleaner. (The harsher Stazon cleaner can denature the photopolymer quicker than through normal use).
4- Handle stamps gently. Peel/roll them off the printed sheets/clear blocks, try not to tug too hard as this could tear more fragile shaped photopolymer stamps.
5 – Replace stamps onto their printed sheets inside the DVD style case and store away from sunlight.
Follow these tips and your photopolymer stamps can still last a long time.